Not for vegetarians…

New York Times reporter Mark Brittman went to Paris to find the best Steak Frites – and found it.

My current favorite — and it should be understood that this changes just about every time I go to Paris — is Le Sèvero, a tiny joint of about 30 seats in the 14th Arrondissment (8, rue des Plantes; 331-4540-4091).

Sèvero is a meat restaurant of the highest order, one with a brilliant wine list, a charming owner, a skilled or at least attentive chef and an overall sensibility that veteran eaters will recognize as both unusual and wonderful. There is entrecôte on the menu, but after seeing the massive côtes de boeuf (for two), a friend and I opted for that. It was simply too gorgeous to pass up.

Roasted, then sliced in the kitchen, served with the bone in, it came blood rare, beautifully marbled and delicious. (No one asked how we wanted it cooked, and this was common. Many Parisian restaurants assume you will take your steak “saignant,” which is seen as correct and translates as underdone. If you want it medium-rare, say “à point,” pronounced “ah pwan.”) The frites were hand cut, expertly fried and, as is so often the case in Paris (and throughout Europe), still made from decent potatoes; when you bite into them you’re not just experiencing crunch but complex flavor.

Read the full review | Watch the slide show